The mountaineering community is grieving the loss of Joshua Kirui, better known as Cheruiyot, a banker, ultra-runner, and esteemed climber.
His body was found on Thursday, May 23, just a few meters below Mount Everest’s summit, where he was striving to be the first African to climb without supplementary oxygen. Kirui, whose remarkable achievements in mountaineering and marathon running garnered global admiration, tragically perished during one of the season’s most dangerous expeditions. Base camp officials confirmed that rescuers from Seven Summit Treks discovered his lifeless body. Efforts are still underway to rescue his Sherpa guide, Nawang.
“Kirui lost contact at Bishop Rock,” officials reported. “Nawang’s last communication indicated that Kirui refused to turn back and declined bottled oxygen, exhibiting unusual behavior.”
This expedition has been deadly for several climbers, with a massive ice mound collapsing below Hillary Step, the last known location of Kirui and others. This incident underscores the extreme risks faced by those attempting to conquer Everest.
Cheruiyot Kirui’s interest in mountaineering started in 2012 during a work trip to Outward Bound in Loitokitok. The stunning view of Mount Kilimanjaro sparked his passion for hiking, leading him to begin climbing seriously in 2014. His early climbs included the Aberdare Range, Mount Kenya, and finally, Mount Kilimanjaro in December 2014. Despite a background in basic sports during secondary school, Kirui’s intellectual curiosity about geography and history, combined with his growing interest in hiking, drove him into serious mountaineering. His ultra-running ability enabled him to complete multiple hikes from trail base to summit in a single day, a feat that typically takes days for most hikers.
In 2019, Kirui met James Muhia, an experienced climber and fellow ultra-runner. Both became brand ambassadors for Salomon Kenya, a sports gear company, solidifying their friendship through shared adventures.
By early 2022, Kirui aimed to climb an 8,000-meter peak, starting with Mt. Aconcagua in Argentina. However, work constraints shifted his focus to Gasherbrum II in Pakistan. When logistical challenges arose, the team redirected their efforts to Manaslu, using it as high-altitude training for Everest.
In September 2023, Kirui and four mountaineers began their journey to climb Manaslu, starting from Kathmandu and trekking to Dharapani. Their acclimatisation rotations took them to higher camps, despite Kirui experiencing high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) symptoms. His determination saw him reach the summit on September 24, without oxygen canisters or Sherpa assistance. Kirui’s Everest expedition in 2024 was meticulously planned, with detailed preparations for the extreme conditions he expected to face.
In his writings a week before the climb, he outlined his strategies for dealing with the cold and high-altitude illnesses, reflecting his thorough understanding of the risks involved.
“Without oxygen, one is much more susceptible to frostbite,” he wrote. “I have heated gloves, mittens, and socks with spare batteries, and medications for HAPE and HACE. Nawang Sherpa carries an emergency bottle of oxygen for critical situations.”
Kirui’s passion and determination were evident in his final reflections. “Climbing Everest has been done before,” he told the Star. “The difference is climbing without supplemental oxygen. That has not been done by any African. It’s the tough way to climb Mt. Everest.”
Despite the tremendous physical, mental, and financial investment, Kirui’s journey ended tragically near the summit of Everest. His last words encapsulate his spirit of adventure and resilience: “This attempt looks like a shot in the dark, but we know where the darkness is, and our shot is aimed there.”
Kirui scaled Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) without supplemental oxygen in September 2023, becoming the first African to summit a peak above 8,000 meters without supplemental oxygen. His other notable climbs include several speed ascents of Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,895m), where he completed the round trip in just 15 hours. Kirui also summited Mt. Kenya (5,199m) over 20 times, setting course records on its three main routes.
His record time on the Sirimon route, from Old Moses to the Lenana Summit, is an impressive 2 hours and 56 minutes.
Additionally, he completed three back-to-back Lenana summits in under 24 hours. Kirui also tackled the Rwenzori Mountains, summiting Mt. Stanley (5,109m) on an expedition that spanned six days. His achievements extend to the Aberdare Range, where he traversed several routes, including a self-supported south-north traverse.
Mt. Everest, straddling the border between Nepal and Tibet in the Himalayas, remains the ultimate challenge for mountaineers worldwide.
On May 12, 2022, James Kagambi became the first Kenyan to reach Everest’s peak at 8,849 meters (29,032 feet), as part of the all-black Full Circle Everest team from the US.
Joshua Kirui’s legacy as a daring mountaineer and ultra-runner will continue to inspire many. His journey from a banker to a trailblazing climber showcases the remarkable heights one can achieve with passion and perseverance.
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